Finger jams

Finger jams are a technique where climbers use their fingers to grip inside cracks or narrow holds in the rock. They insert their fingers into the crevice and twist or curl them to create a secure hold. This method allows climbers to gain leverage and move upward or sideways, especially on routes that lack prominent handholds. Effective finger jamming requires strength, precision, and practice to avoid injury.

Examples

Finger jams are crucial in crack climbing. One example is a climber reaching into a narrow crack, twisting their fingers to create friction and hold their body weight. They may do this repeatedly, inching upward along the crack. Another example involves a climber inserting their fingers up to the knuckles into a small crack, while leveraging their body against the rock face for stability. This technique helps maintain balance and control during upward movement.