Half Crimp

In bouldering, a "Half Crimp" is a hand grip position used on small holds. The fingers are bent at the first joint, creating a 90-degree angle, with the thumb pressing on the index finger for additional support. This grip offers a balance of strength and flexibility, crucial for handling holds that are neither too large nor too small. The Half Crimp is less stressing on the tendons compared to a Full Crimp, reducing the risk of injury while maintaining strong grip power.

Examples

While attempting a tricky bouldering problem, Sarah comes across a small edge. She knows she can't use a full crimp due to the sharp nature of the hold. Instead, she opts for a half crimp, bending her fingers at a 90-degree angle while keeping her thumb off the hold. This technique helps her maintain control without risking finger injury. During a competition, Alex approaches a slightly overhanging wall section. He spots a series of tiny edges and quickly decides half crimping will offer the best combination of grip and safety. By engaging his finger tendons in a half crimp, he manages to hold onto the precarious positions and transition smoothly to the next move.