Velocity-based training

Velocity-based training (VBT) is a method of strength training that uses the speed of movement to gauge and enhance performance. In bouldering, VBT helps climbers improve their power and explosiveness. By monitoring the velocity of their movements, climbers can make adjustments to their training intensity, ensuring they develop the necessary fast-twitch muscle fibers. This method allows climbers to efficiently track progress and optimize their training sessions for better climbing performance.

Examples

Velocity-based training: 1. Power Boost on Crimps: By using velocity-based training, she increased her explosive movements. This helped her launch from small crimps to larger holds with confidence and precision. 2. Dynamic Movement Improvement: He tracked his pull-ups speed with a device to gauge progress. Faster pull-ups translated to better dynamic moves on the wall, such as dynos and big reaches. 3. Training Peaks for Campus Board: Using velocity-based metrics, he monitored his speed on the campus board. Faster hand movements on the rungs improved his muscle power and coordination. 4. Wall Sprints for Performance: She incorporated velocity-based drills like wall sprints, timing her ascents. This increased her overall climbing speed on complex routes. 5. Enhanced Finger Strength: He measured the speed of his weighted fingerboard repetitions. Noticing improvements helped him generate more force quickly during climbs, benefiting his overall performance.