Figure 8 on a bight

In lead climbing and sport climbing, "Figure 8 on a bight" is a type of knot used to create a secure loop in the middle of a climbing rope without needing access to the ends. It involves forming a bight (a bend) in the rope, then tying the figure-eight shape. This knot is reliable and often used for attaching a climber's harness to a belay rope or for creating an anchor point. The knot is appreciated for its strength and ease of inspection, making it a staple in climbing safety practices.

Examples

The "Figure 8 on a bight" is a crucial knot in lead climbing and sports climbing. It is used for securing the climber to a rope when there is no access to the ends of the rope. In practice, the climber forms a loop or 'bight' in the rope and then ties a Figure 8 knot with that loop. In lead climbing, climbers often use this knot to create a secure loop for attaching themselves to an anchor or belay station. The knot's ease of inspection and reliability make it a preferred choice. In sports climbing, the "Figure 8 on a bight" may be used to create loops for clipping into carabiners or anchor points when setting up top ropes. The knot’s secure nature ensures that the rope remains intact even under heavy load, adding an extra layer of safety during the climb.