Flared crack

A flared crack is a crack in the rock where the walls of the crack angle outward rather than remaining parallel. Instead of offering secure parallel edges for jamming, the crack opens up like a funnel or V-shape, making hand jams, finger jams, and gear placements less secure. Flared cracks are significantly more difficult to climb than parallel-sided cracks because jams tend to slip out under load. Climbers must rely on precise technique, counter-pressure, and creative body positioning to make progress. Gear placements in flared cracks are often marginal because cams can walk or shift in the widening gap.

Examples

In lead climbing, a flared crack is one where the walls angle outward, making jams and gear placements insecure. For example, a climber attempting a flared hand crack might find that their jams keep popping out because the crack walls push their hand outward rather than providing a constriction to lock against. Protecting a flared crack is notoriously difficult because cams can walk deeper into the flare where they may not hold a fall. Climbers often need to use offset cams or creative placements in constrictions within the flare. Indian Creek and Vedauwoo are famous for their flared cracks that humble even experienced trad climbers.