Off-width

An off-width is a crack that is too wide for effective hand or fist jams but too narrow to fit the climber's entire body inside for chimney technique. Off-widths typically range from about 10cm to 30cm (4 to 12 inches) wide. They are widely considered one of the most physically demanding and technically challenging types of climbing. Techniques used in off-widths include arm bars, chicken wings, knee locks, heel-toe jams, and Leavittation. Off-widths require specialized gear such as large cams (sizes 4-7) and are notorious for being painful, exhausting, and humbling.

Examples

In lead climbing, an off-width is a crack too wide for hand jams but too narrow to chimney. For example, a climber tackling a 6-inch off-width might use an arm bar with one arm inside the crack while the other hand palms the outside face, combined with knee locks and heel-toe jams for the feet. Off-widths are infamous for shredding skin and draining energy. Classic off-width routes like Offwidth Supreme in Indian Creek or Century Crack in Canyonlands are considered testpieces. Protecting off-widths requires large cams, and many climbers carry a full rack of #4, #5, and #6 cams for a single pitch.