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Rock Climbing in Chiang Mai: The Ultimate Guide for Climbing in Chiang Mai 2024. Everything you need to know.
Rock Climbing in Chiang Mai Guide for 2024
Last updated on April 20, 2024
A comprehensive guide to climbing in Crazy Horse Buttress and Chiang Dao in Chiang Mai, Thailand. This guide is for climbers of all levels, from beginners to experts, and includes information on climbing areas, seasons, finding partners, transportation, gear, local climbing guides, and more.
Climbing in Chiang Mai 2024
Glossary
Chiang Mai, located in the mountainous region of northern Thailand, with over 250 sports routes, its a hidden gem for traveling rock climbing enthusiasts. With its abundant limestone cliffs, diverse climbing routes, and breathtaking natural scenery, Chiang Mai offers a unique and thrilling experience for climbers of all levels.
Chiang Mai has 2 climbing areas:
- Crazy Horse Buttress
- Chiang Dao area
For beginners, Chiang Mai is one of the best places for beginners to learn. Most of the climbing routes are well-equipped, many of them over-bolted with bolts spaced between 1 to 1.5 meters apart in most of the beginner routes. Runouts are extremely rare for beginner climbs even in intermediate to expert level routes, making it an ideal place for beginners to learn top rope and lead climbers to gain confidence and develop fundamental climbing skills.
Intermediate climbers will find a wide range of routes to test their skills and push their limits. Chiang Mai boasts an impressive variety of climbing routes from 6a’s up to 7b’s with varying climbing styles including Tufa/3d climbing, technical crimp climbing, short bouldery climbs, long climbs and overhanging routes.
For expert climbers however, it is worth noting that Chiang Mai may not offer as many challenging grades. Most of the grades range from 5 to 7a+, there are fewer routes available above 7b with only 2 7c’s and 4 8a’s.
Pros and cons
I. Why Choose Chiang Mai?
Chiang Mai is a small city in northern Thailand surrounded with natural beauty, enchanting temples, unique culture and languages, a laid-back lifestyle and much more. With a vibrant scene for tourism, Chiang Mai offers countless chances to delve into northern Thai culture with the some of the best and delicious cuisine in Thailand, beautiful temples, hiking trails, mountains and waterfalls.
Climbing Areas:
There are 2 main climbing areas in Chiang Mai, Crazy Horse Buttress and Chiang Dao. All the climbing in Chiang Mai is limestone with Crazy Horse being the most popular of the two areas, located 45 minutes east from the city center while the Chiang Dao crag is located 1 hour and 25 minutes north of the city center. Most of the climbing in Chiang Mai is top rope and lead climbing. There is some bouldering to be found but unfortunately they are not properly documented in guides, they are hard to find and are in secret locations where bouldering is probably prohibited by officials.
II. Outdoor Climbing Spots in Chiang Mai:
A. Crazy Horse Buttress
Description
Crazy Horse Buttress parking lot view with the iconic horse shaped rock formation in above the Main Area. The trail to the left of the hut leads to Aircon Wall, State Anxiety Cave, Buddha Buttress, Main Area, The Furnace, Archway, The Rooftop and Gatekeepers Buttress.
Located east of the city about a 45 minute drive, its a series of Limestone walls in a hill with over 200 sports routes, several multipiches ranging from 5 to 7b and few boulders scattered across the area. It is the most popular climbing location in the north of Thailand. Ideal for beginners and intermediates. Crazy Horse boasts a wide array of climbing styles, technically crimpy climbs, long routes, multi pitches, cave climbing, short bouldery routes, tufa and 3D climbing, overhang climbing, layback climbing and much more. There are toilets in the parking lot area.
There are shaded areas all through the day, depending on the direction of the wall with some areas protected from rain.
Climbing is free, there is no admission fee to climb or security guards. https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/thailand/chaing-mai
I heard Crazy Horse is Closed!
Crazy Horse re-opened last year after being closed for a few years.
I head they closed it again!
On January 17, 2024, Officials posted a sign in the entrance that reads: "Do not enter the climbing area".
Ask on the facebook group before you go or check with authorities, you can read comments here (https://web.facebook.com/groups/19877455083/permalink/10168260624820084)
B. Chiang Dao
Description
Padaeng Wall is the most popular crag in Chiang Dao. It is a 30 meter high wall with 20 routes. The wall is located 10 minutes from the parking lot. The wall is shaded in the afternoon.
Chiang Dao is a series of red limestone walls spread across the eastern side of the Chiang town center, about a 1 hour and 25 minute drive north of the Chiang Mai city center.The predominant climbing style is crimpy technical climbing, tufa climbing and overhang climbing.Chiang Dao area is geared more towards intermediate climbers with most of the grades in the range of 6a+ to 8a, with bolting further spread apart compared to Crazy Horse. The most popular crag in Chiang Dao is Padaeng wall, other walls are rarely climbed. There are no toilets in the parking lot area.
Chiang Dao is an afternoon climbing area, the shade will start after 1pm.
Climbing is free, there is no admission fee to climb in Chiang Dao. https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/thailand/chaing-mai
C. Bouldering
Unfortunately bouldering is limited in Chiang Mai. Bouldering is not well documented in Chiang Mai. There are bouldering spots known to the locals but their access might be limited or prohibited. Most of the known boulders are located in Crazy Horse.
D. Lampang
Although not in Chiang Mai, Lampang is a 3 hours drive east of the city and has a crag. Unfortunately this crag is in private military land and requires you hire climbing guides from Progression Vertical (CMRCA) and pay fees.
III. Climbing Seasons in Chiang Mai:
Chiang Mai can be climbed all year round. There are different seasons in Chiang Mai with some overlapping each other.
- Dry Season or High Tourist Season (November-April) - Smoky Season (February-April), Cold Season (December-January), Bee Season (October - January)
- Wet Season (September - November)
- Summer Low Tourist Season (April - September) - Wasp Season (April-October)
Important holidays (Prebook accommodation and transportation in advance as everything gets sold out, especially bus tickets, hotels and motorbikes/car rentals.)
- 13-15 April - Songkran (Thai New Year Festival, “the water throwing festival”)
- 15-16 Nov - Yi Peng and Loy Krathong (Lantern festival and krathong river release festival)
- 30-5 Jan - New Years
IV. Finding Rock Climbing Partners:
A. Facebook groups
- Climbing Chiang Mai
- Chiang Mai Climbing Community
- Thailand Find a Rock Climbing Partner and Climbing Gear
- Rock Climbing in Thailand
B. Going to the gym.
Go to Alpine Outpost or Progression Vertical around 5pm, you will find plenty of people and locals climbing. Talk with them and ask around.
C. Going to Crazy Horse around 9:30 AM on a weekend and wait for people to arrive.
Wait in the parking lot or walk around the Main Area, The Furnace or Tamarind Village and ask to join a group. During high season you will find big groups of climbers on the weekend climbing in the popular areas. Some might let you join or give you a belay. This method might not work during the weekdays as there may be no climbers in Crazy Horse.
V. Transportation
A. Motorbike
Cheapest and easiest way to move around the city and to the crag. Prices start around 250 Baht (7 USD) per day and 2,500 Baht (75 USD) per month depending on the bike type. Wear a helmet! Your insurance will not cover you if you get into an accident if you didn’t have a helmet on or without a motorbike driving license. If you’re caught driving without a driving license or helmet you will be fined (Usually 500 baht or 15 USD).
B. Car Rental
Car rentals start around 1000 Baht (30 USD) per day and 12,000 (350 USD) per month. Best method of transportation to go to Crazy Horse or Chiang Dao. Limited parking in the city center, ask your hotel if they have parking prior to renting a car.
C. Ride Hailing
Grab - Best ride hailing app in Thailand. They don’t drive as far as Crazy Horse.
Bolt - Cheaper than Grab.
InDriver - Cash payment ride hailing app, allows price negotiation with driver. It may be possible to get one to drive you to Crazy Horse.
D. Taxi
Taxi will take you to Crazy Horse but the price will vary. Ask your hotel or travel agent booth in the streets of the city center or at the airport.
E. Bus, Minivan and SongThaew (Red Truck)
You can take the minivan or songthaew that drops you off in the road that drives past Crazy Horse. They will drive by the same road in the afternoons and you can hail them or ask them to pick you up there but it may not be reliable.
VI. Gear Essentials for Climbing in Chiang Mai:
- 70 meter rope - The ideal length for Crazy Horse and Chiang Dao. 60 meter rope also works for around 90% of the routes, there are only a handful of extensions that require 80 meters.
- 14-18 draws - Routes are extremely well protected with bolts usually 1 meter apart. 12 draws is ok for allot of the short/medium routes. Bring more if you want to enjoy the long quality routes.
- Hiking Shoes - Steep terrain Hiking is required to reach some of the best routes in Crazy Horse (Heart Wall, GateKeepers Buttress and The Roof)
- Climbing Helmet
- Bug Spray
- Tissue/Toilet paper
- Drinking water
Where to buy Gear?
- Alpine Outpost (Online or at the climbing gym, you can try the shoes and gear at the gym before buying)
- Progression Vertical and Progression Shop(Online or the Progression Shop located in Nong Hoi near the Progression Gym)
- Decathlon (Only the Central Festival branch sells climbing gear, Thaepae gate store doesn’t sell climbing equipment)
Where to rent rock climbing gear in Chiang Mai?
- - Check with Progression Climbing Gym for availability if you want to rent climbing shoes, harness, rope, QuickDraws, belay device and helmet.
- - Ask on the Chiang Mai Climbing Facebook groups for gear rental.
IV. Indoor Climbing in Chiang Mai
A. Alpine Outpost (Bouldering Gym)
The best bouldering gym in Chiang Mai with the only Moonboard in Chiang Mai (2016 Moonboard). Its where you will meet some of the strongest climbers in the north, with great route setting and local community. Only a 10 minute drive from the city. The staff are very helpful offering beta and help and new routes almost every week. It is an open air gym with plenty of fans, (bring some bug spray). They have shoes and gear for sale. You can find Sportiva Solution, Otaki, Katana shoes, Scarpa, Evolve, Mad Rock shoes, Wild Country harness and draws.
Facebook (Announcements and info): https://www.facebook.com/alpineoutpost/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/the_alpine_outpost
Equipment for sale: https://alpineoutpost.com/
B. Progression Vertical (Known as CMRCA, Bouldering, lead, top rope)
Progression Vertical is the only rope gym in the north with top rope, lead and bouldering available. They offer courses in Top Rope, Lead Climbing and Multi Pitch. They sell Black Diamond shoes, Climbing Rope, QuickDraws, Belay Devices and climbing harnesses along with gear rental like Rope Climbing Rental, Climbing Shoe Rental and Climbing Harness Rentals.
Facebook (announcement and info): https://m.facebook.com/progressionvertical/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/progressionvertical/
Equipment for sale: https://shopprogression.com/
VII. Local Climbing Guides and Courses:
Private Guiding Prices usually start around 3,000 Baht (90 USD) and up. Ask the local climbing gyms for more information.
VIII. Going Beyond Climbing in Chiang Mai:
Pai, Doi Suthep and Doi Pui, Huakaew Reservoir (Chiang Mai Univeristy), Old Town, Nimmnahaimen, Monks Trail Hike, Huakaew waterfall, Sticky Waterfall, Elephant Cafe, Horse Riding, Coffee shops, explore the city and the temple, visit the hot springs, Chiang Dao forest.
1. Discover Pai:
Pai is a small laid back backpacker town nestled in the mountains 4 hours to the north of Chiang Mai. Explore the picturesque landscapes, rice fields, rivers, caves, canyon, waterfalls, and relax in the hot thermal baths.
2. Doi Suthep and Doi Pui:
Doi Suthep mountain is the big mountain overlooking Chiang Mai. Doi Suthep is famous for its ancient Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple, offering breathtaking views of the city below along with hiking trails and temples. Adjacent to it, Doi Pui offers hiking trails through lush forests and mountain up to a Hmong tribal village showcasing traditional hill tribe culture, food and coffee.
3. Huay Kaew Reservoir:
Situated near Chiang Mai University, Huay Kaew Reservoir provides a tranquil escape from the city. Hundreds of locals gather in the afternoon to watch sunset, talk and exercise. Great place to flâneur during the afternoon.
4. Old Town:
Stroll through the historic Old Town area of Chiang Mai, filled with charming temples, narrow streets, and vibrant markets. Discover the perfect café to relax in while sipping on a cup of locally sourced coffee or indulge in traditional Thai dishes at the street food stalls.
5. Monks Trail Hike:
Easy hiking trail that takes you through forests and up the steep slopes of Doi Suthep mountain, eventually leading to the picturesque To Wat Pha Lat Temple overlooking the city with a river running through it.
6. Huay Kaew Waterfall:
Just a short hike from the rim of the city, Huay Kaew Waterfall is a refreshing oasis where you can cool off and relax amidst the cascading waters. Pack a picnic and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere surrounded by lush greenery.
7. Sticky Waterfall:
Located slightly outside of Chiang Mai. Climb up the limestone terraces without slipping, thanks to the sticky mineral deposits, and take a dip in the clear pools along the way.
9. Second Wind Ranch and Rescue Horseback Riding.
Second Wind Ranch&Rescue is a not for profit horse rescue based in Chiang Mai. Western horse riding lessons and trail rides.
10. Mountain Bike:
Spend the day mountain biking in the national parks.
IX. Accommodations and Food:
Staying next to the crag
At the moment of writing this there are very few accommodation within a walking distance of Crazy Horse. The previous homestay located in Jira’s restaurant closed.
Here are some of the available options:
- Skugga Cabin - 2 minute drive, 15 minute walk/hike
- Malila Homestay - 3 minute drive, 20 minute walk/hike
- Maisam Resort - 7 minute drive, 1 hour walk/hike
Staying in the city
Staying in the city offers the best price and options but requires a 45 minute drive to the crag. Its more fun and social to stay in the city center, you can meet other climbers and travelers. The city center is filled with restaurants, bars, coffee shops, and markets. The city center is also the best place to stay if you want to explore the city and the temples.
City Areas
Old Town: Best place to stay. Small charming town, walkable, lots of food options, lots of beautiful temples and sidestreets and tourist nightlife. Cheapest hostels are to the south and to the north. To the east near Thapae gate is the backpackers nightlife (Zoe in Yellow, Spicy).
Santitham: Very cheap, mostly locals live here. 10-15 minute walk to Nimman and Old Town.
Nimman: Modern trendy area with lots of coffee shops, coworking spaces, restaurants and bars. 15-20 minute walk to Old Town.
Chang Klahn, Night Bazaar and Loi Kroh road: Lots of bars and night markets. Right next to old town. Local market in Warorot.
- Hostels: Prices range from 150 to 300 baht per night (4.5 USD to 9 USD).
- Hotels: Prices range from 450 to 3,000 baht per night (12 USD to 90 USD).
- Long term: You can rent simple hotel rooms for a month for around 6,000 Baht a month (180 USD). Ask your hotel if they offer weekly or monthly deals
- Condominiums: The majority of condominiums offer monthly rentals. Prices range from 5,000 baht (150 USD) to 25,000 baht (750 USD) a month.
X. Getting to Chiang Mai:
Flying
Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX) is located in the southeastern side of the city center only a 10 minutes drive away. Airport taxi to the city center costs 150 Baht (4.5 USD) and you book them when you walk out of baggage handling.
Chiang Mai has direct flights from the following:
- Bangkok BKK DMK Everyday
- Vietnam SGN, HAN, DAD
- Korea PUS ICN
- Japan KIX
- Taiwan TPE
- Singapore SIN
- Malaysia KUL
- Laos LPQ
- Hong Kong HKG
- Mainland China PVG, KMG, JHG
Bus
Bus from Thakek to Chiang Mai
If you’re coming from Green Climbers Home (Thakek, Laos) you can take the bus from Nakhon Phanom to Chiang Mai. The bus takes around 16 hours. There are no buses straight from Thakek, Laos to Chiang Mai, you must cross the border first.
Bus from Khon Kaen to Chiang Mai
If you’re planning to boulder or climb in Khon Kaen you can take the bus from Khon Kaen to Chiang Mai which takes around 16 hours.
Bus from Bangkok to Chiang Mai
Bus from Bangkok to Chiang Mai can take around 12 hours
Bus from Krabi to Chiang Mai
This is a long bus that kales around 24 hours of traveling and requires a layover in Bangkok.
Train
Train from Bangkok leaves every day about once an hour. Takes around 14-16 hours depending on the train. The best train is the night train, it saves you a night of accommodation and you wake up in Chiang Mai, make sure to book seats that convert to a bed (Sleeper AC) so that you can get a full night of sleep.
Where to resole shoes in Thailand?
Check out the guide to resoling climbing shoes in Thailand:
Questions or feedback?
If you have any questions or feedback, feel free to reach out [email protected]. I would love to hear from you!
Disclaimer
Disclaimer: Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and can result in serious injury or death. The information provided in this blog is for educational and entertainment purposes only. While every effort is made to provide accurate and up-to-date information, we cannot guarantee the safety or accuracy of any content. It is essential to properly assess your own skills and fitness level before attempting any rock climbing activities. Always seek professional instruction and guidance, and climb at your own risk. The authors and publishers of this blog are not responsible for any accidents, injuries, or damages that may occur as a result of any information or recommendations provided. Please verify the information with the local authorities or businesses before planning your trip.